Labeling and Mapping is Key to Avoiding Possible Problems

A typical residential installation has many individual parts that can be hectic without proper labels and mapping.  Our crews will label the the roof with panel location, comprail location, and strut location before roof penetration.  This procedure gives us definite awareness as to how and where the system will be located.  This step is important because panels are secured on comprail, comprail is attached to strut, and strut is secured on to roof bolts. 

After a drawing is done, located rafters and use a chalk line to find the center and mark them.  Use the line to space out the achors by dividing the length of array minus 6 " x 2 (use for both side of over  hang).  For example, solarworld length is 66 " with two rows, 66 x 2 + 1 1/4 " for comprail on the ends and 3" - 11/4 for the middle comprail.  I ussually add 1 inch  for the end of one side.  Also,  one piece of the strut is longer for the J-box to attach to. As you can visualize, this process is complicated and a design/map will imperitive to successful roof mounting.

Mapping the inverters for EMU communication is necessary.  Use the enphase map to located all the inverters.  Make sure the barcode is attached to the map.  This will allow the owner to verify panel and inverter production.  Also, write on the inverter the location and string.  This is a must to aviod confusion for mapping the location of panel/inverter in the array.

The picture below is an exellent example of how complicated the process can be.  The inverters are mapped and mountd on the comprail, the strut is down and secured with one a little longer for the j-box.  The panels are place with in the comprail and secured.   

Hawaii Kai _Saeki Job done

This roof's dimensions were a  25 ft x 15 feet.  We fit fifteen Sunworld panels with fifteen enphase 190 inverters with plenty of room to spare. This roof is secure and generating around 18 kWh per day.  Awesome!!!!  Enjoy

ENPHASE 190 WIRED IN SERIES

Two strings of Enphase 190 Inverters tied in with Sunworld 230 Watt panels.  Every string will have a end butt and a group of four wires.  This system had fifteen panels with inverters. 

Enphase Inverters wired in Series

Main lines are pulled to the J-box and connected to the Enphase wires.  Enphase provides L1,L2, L3, and Equipment Ground Electrode, but we used a L1 and L2 for the main house.  The Copper #6 was crimped to the EGC, and the red, black and white were wired to color cordinated wires from the disconnect below. The white wire is the equipment ground conductor and the orange was contained using a wire nut. 

Wire nuts are very important, but must be done correctly in insure proper connection without loss.  Use your electrical wire plies and as your squeezing them together pull away.  This will allow the smaller #14 to wrap around the #10 and create a needle nose like connection.  This technique will provide a secure bond inside the nut.

EC-40 with 80 Gallon Tank

This job was my most favorite so far.  We wanted to use a solar Edwards but the garage structure was not sturdy enough to torerate an extra 1000 pounds.  So, we installed a typical 4x8 panel with a tank.  We built a shed outside to open up space for the inside.  The only differance between this tank and others was the 110 pump.  The electrician used an electrical outlet.  He connected to the existing and tapped it.  The controlled and pump used the same outlet.  It was so simple, it blew me away.  The tank still used 240 to power the anode, but the solar system was all 110.  My question is, if we only use 110, do we need an electrian?  I do not mean tapping the line, I mean just plug and play. I will send the pics as soon as I can.  Enjoy!!!!

Anode vs Cathode and anode oxidation in Hot Water Tanks

First, I would like to thank Mr. Nishioka for sharing his concerns about anodes in Hot Water Tanks.  Ths posting is on behalf of his concern and will hopefully give some insight about anodes in hot water tanks.  An electrode can either be a cathode or anode.  If the electrode is negatively charged than it is anode, and a cathode is positively charged. 

Unlike DC current, which is one directional, AC alternate back and forth about 60 cycles per second.  For example, a light using AC is literally flickering on and off, but at such short periods that eyes do not pick it up.  Both a anode and cathode is AC current are more of an electrode than a true anode or true cathode.  I realize this might be confusing, but basically the anode in a hot water tank is suseptible to erosion.   

The effects of heat on electrodes is an issue that all owners should be aware of.  The electrode will break down.  I have attached a link to popular mechanics that will help us understand how to change a hot water anode.  http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/improvement/electrical-plumbing/4206690
Another great article written by a plumbing company discusses the corrosion process and replacement DYI. 

Enjoy,

James